Where is the refill valve on a toilet

These fill valves work by means of a floating ball attached to a pivoting lever that opens and closes a plunger stem fitted against a water inlet port—hence the name ballcock. The design of the ballcock is very similar to that of older traditional faucets, with a rubber washer. In most cases, these washers were not easily accessible for repairs, so when the ballcock toilet valve no longer closed properly, the whole valve needed to be replaced.

The de facto standard in early plunger style fill valve was the Mansfield 09, many of which are still in service today. The Mansfield 09 is still manufactured by Prier but the ballcock is not listed as anti-siphon by the manufacturer.

Cesco Brass also makes a similar style anti-siphon plunger ballcock called the Burlington 20A. If you have one of these old-style fill valves they should be replaced because they do not meet current plumbing codes calling for anti-siphon protection. Like the plunger or piston ballcock, diaphragm ballcocks have been around a long time. They have strong similarities to brass plunger-type ball-cocks they also feature a float ball but they have some important differences.

One such difference is that these ballcocks are anti-siphon. They can come in a cast brass body or plastic body construction. Rather than a plunger stem with a washer that seals against the water inlet port, this type of ballcock has a diaphragm seal that opens and closes to control water flow. Plastic body construction is what you find on most newer model anti-siphon diaphragm ballcocks, and is probably what you will buy if you are choosing to replace a ballcock type valve with another ballcock.

Note that this all-plastic type still qualifies as a true ballcock, since its operating mechanism makes use of a float ball. Cast brass construction is found on older models of diaphragm-type ballcocks, such as the Mansfield 07 now discontinued or the Wolverine Model , both of which are anti-siphon. On an older style diaphragm ballcock, the bonnet or cap is made of cast brass just like the rest of the fill valve body.

The button that actuates the diaphragm is plastic, however. Today, brass models are typically replaced with modern plastic models. This type is identified by a plastic floating O-shaped cup that moves up and down around the fill valve shaft. The floating cup is attached using a metal spring clipped to a metal actuating rod. Water level in the tank is controlled by adjusting where the actuating rod connects to the float cup.

This is a very popular and easy to maintain fill-valve style. This design accounts for the vast majority of toilet fill valves sold, and it is often the replacement of choice when it comes time to replace an older plunger- or diaphragm-style ballcock unit. Many styles have adjustable shafts, allowing the fill valve to be adjusted up or down to fit different toilet tank depths. At this stage in the evolution of toilet fill valves, the device no longer qualifies as a true ballcock, since the floating ball has now been replaced by a different mechanism.

Once the water is turned off, drain the tank before you can disconnect the toilet fill valve. To begin draining the tank, flush the toilet and hold the flush lever down to remove as much water as possible. Once most of the water is gone, you will need to use a turkey baster or a wet-dry vacuum to get rid of the small amount of water sitting at the bottom of the tank. Locate the toilet fill valve. The toilet fill valve is located inside the toilet tank, usually off to one side.

In newer toilets, it is the entire plastic column that includes the float and the on-off lever for filling. In older toilets, the float is a separate piece but it will be connected to the top of the fill valve. Detach the toilet fill valve. Loosen the nut that secures the fill valve to the water supply line by turning it counterclockwise with pliers or a wrench.

Then, carefully pull the supply line out of the valve underneath the tank. Keep a towel on hand or on the floor below the opening to catch any water that comes out. Part 2. Purchase a new toilet fill valve. Go to your local hardware store and purchase a new toilet fill valve. Most new toilet fill valves are universal, meaning they will fit in almost any toilet. However, if you are worried about fit, take your old toilet valve with you to the store and use it to assess whether a potential replacement will work.

Put the new toilet fill valve in place. Remove the new toilet fill valve from its packaging. Be sure to read the directions it comes with. The fill valve should come fully assembled, so you should be able to put it straight into the toilet. Make sure all the washers are in place.

It is important to pay attention to how any included washers and nuts should be attached to the valve. There should be washers on the inside and the outside of the tank where the fill valve goes through it. Tighten the fill valve nut carefully.

When you have the toilet fill valve in place, the final part of its installation is to tighten a lock nut onto the threaded part of the valve. This is located on the underside of the tank. When doing this, it is important not to tighten the nut too hard. The nut should be tightened by hand to ensure that you don't tighten it too much.

Reattach the water supply line and turn on the water. Once the replacement fill valve is in place, it's time to get the water flowing again. Attach the supply line to the bottom of the new fill valve.

Then turn on the water by turning the shutoff valve counter clockwise until it stops rotating. If you see any leaks, immediately turn the water off at the shutoff valve. When you turn the water on, the tank should start filling right away. Adjust the float. Once the water is turned back on and your toilet tank has filled, then you can adjust the float on your new toilet fill valve. The float's location can be adjusted with a clip on its side, a set screw at the top of the float shaft, or by adjusting a screw at the top of fill valve where the float attaches.

When positioned correctly, the top of the float should be set at about 1 inch 2. Holding the fill valve with one hand, use the other hand to thread the mounting nut onto the tailpiece from below the toilet. Tighten the mounting nut so it is hand-tight. Use channel-type pliers to tighten the mounting nut slightly further. Make sure not to twist the body of the fill valve inside the tank.

Reconnect the water supply tube to the fill valve. Once again, hand-tighten first and then use pliers to tighten a little more.

Attach one end of the rubber fill tubing to the nipple on the top of the fill valve, then attach the plastic or metal adapter onto the other end of the tubing and clip it to the top of the overflow tube. You may need to cut the rubber tubing with scissors if it's too long.

It should make a smooth bend with no kinks when connected to the overflow tube. Turn on the water supply valve all the way, and watch as the toilet tank refills with water. Adjust the water level to a height that is appropriate for your toilet, following the valve manufacturer's instructions. The tank should fill to a marked water line on the inner walls of the tank; the water level should be about 1 inch below the top of the overflow tube.

Inspect the fittings on the bottom of the tailpiece and shutoff valve to make sure there are no leaks. You may need to tighten them slightly more if there is any seepage. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile.

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