How do strawberries grow

It's funny how all the sites say the same thing, I have never paid attention and currently have enough strawberries to make a pie with rhubarb I found at the local market My strawberry bed is over ten years old, old plants are replaced by new runners and produce nice size fruit, however two years ago I started noticing new strawberry plants but they're like wild ones.

They have tiny little berries and have spread all over. I've tried pulling out those runners but can't get them all. I'm afraid they will choke out my real plants. How do I rid my garden of these wild ones? This is no easy task. Vinegar is cited but it may only slow ttop growth—and may affect you good berries too.

Hand removal is by hand, and this is best done when soon after a rain or when the ground is wet. Read an article that suggested strawberries as a good candidate but your spacing recommendations seem to say no. Please clarify. Raised beds are great for strawberries. June-bearing strawberries still need to be planted about 18 inches apart so the crown — the growth point where roots and shoots join — is level with the soil surface.

The first year, you should pinch off any flowers so the plants will develop to their full potential. The second year you can start harvesting berries.

The runners — long stems that run off the central plant and create more strawberry plants — need to be trimmed when you see them develop. Or, they drain nutrients from the main plant plus your bed will become a jumble of crowded plants, none of them doing very well. The plants have spread to completely cover a plot about 9' x 3-to-4' and I am getting less than a hanful every couple of days.

Otherwise, there are many reasons for smaller fruit: 1. Freezes or cold snaps and winter injury, 2. Poor pollination due to rainy, windy weather or lack of pollinators, 3. Too much heat; strawberries like temperate climates and will be stressed in heat, 4. Strawberries must be watered adequately but not over-watered. Soil must drain well with no standing water. Too much nitrogen in your fertilizer would lead to lush greenergy but small fruit 6.

Strawberries need the right spacing to put out those runners. Improper planting at the start. The crown of the strawberry must be at soil level not to high or low. Full sun at least 8 hours per day , Many of these factors are common to all fruiting plants. This prevents them from getting too moist then waterlogged and rotten from the moisture in the soil after rain.

Plus, it keeps the bugs from getting to the fruit too easily. The answer to an older question here also says "Yes, straw is commonly used around strawberries as mulch. The exact origin of the common name is uncertain. According to etymologists , the prevailing theory is that the straw may reference the tiny chaff-like external seeds which cover the fruit.

Other sources suggest its name stems from the fact that English youth picked wild strawberries and sold them impaled on grass straws to the public. Years ago my parents grew a strawberry by the name of Sunrise. I lost all of them one year and have not been able to find that variety of plants to replace them with. I have found a new berry called Sweet Sunrise but not the old variety.

Have any idea where I might find those plants. See references:. My strawberries are in their second year. The plants are healthy with huge leaves but the fruit was small and not as plentiful as I was expecting. What do I do to get a bigger crop next year?

I love strawberries, when I lived in CA I used to go to California strawberries dot com all the time for the best recipes ever! I am setting up my garden to do mostly strawberries. Thanks for the amazing information. I don't do any of the 'special' things to grow strawberries.

My plants are in big planters, they have rooted, flowered, fruited, made runners and been perfectly happy for nearly three years now. I bring them in to the plant room during the coldest part of the winter then back out on the south wall of the house to do it all over again.

I have runners to plant or give away, lots of fruit we eat straight off the plant and no worries about what to do when. I tend to do this will all my plants and it works. Too much fuss kill everything. Hello there.. I found this Wonderful article this morning!

And the link that says, 'How to make Strawberry Preserves' is broken! When I go there, it says Page not found.. I'll be checking back! Hello - In response to your complaint, go to the top of the page and type in Strawberry Preserves.

It'll take you to the video and have a working link for the recipe. Have a blessed day! Thank you to Jeanette for taking the time to provide these helpful instructions! Bring container plants into the greenhouse in mid-December, but give no heat or water until the first new leaves appear, except for spraying with a fine mist of water on sunny days. Keep the atmosphere moist and restrict ventilation to sunny days.

Increase watering as the foliage develops. Too much heat will result in foliage at the expense of flowers. Hand-pollinate daily with a soft paintbrush to ensure a good crop of well-shaped fruits.

For the highest quality fruit, thin the flowers by removing the smallest ones straight after the petals have fallen, leaving eight to ten fruits to mature. Reduce ventilation and keep the atmosphere thoroughly moist at all times until ripening begins. Water copiously and spray with water frequently in sunny weather to promote large fruits and discourage mildew. As the fruit colours, increase ventilation, reduce watering and stop spraying with water altogether to reduce the risk of fruit rot.

Apply a half-strength liquid feed every 10 to 14 days until the fruit begins to colour. Too much feeding will result in soft, tasteless fruit and increase the risk of rotting. Once ripening begins, a lower temperature will improve colour and flavour but slow down the ripening process. Bring plants into an unheated greenhouse in February, and follow the steps for mid-April harvesting.

They have a short but heavy cropping period over two or three weeks. There are early-, mid- and late-fruiting cultivars, cropping from early to mid-summer. The crops are not as heavy as summer-fruiting varieties, the fruits are smaller and plants are less likely to produce runners. They need no special care and can be left to fend for themselves after planting.

Always buy plants from a reputable supplier, so that cultivars are true to type and plants are disease free. Strawberries can be bought as potted plants or bare-rooted runners:. Young plants in pots or packs of plug plants are normally on sale from late spring onwards and can be planted as soon as you buy them. Runners look like little clumps of roots with very few leaves.

You can buy runners from late summer to early spring, and they should be planted in early autumn or early spring avoid planting in winter when the ground is wet and cold. If you plant several varieties with different cropping times, you can have harvests from early summer through to the first frosts. See our list of AGM fruit and veg. Strawberries like fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic soil, and do best in full sun, but will tolerate some shade.

Alpine strawberries thrive in shade. Avoid planting in sites prone to frost, which can damage the flowers, or in exposed locations, which make it hard for pollinating insects to reach the flowers. Strawberries are traditionally grown in rows in a dedicated bed or strawberry patch. Strawberries also grow well in containers, including hanging baskets and windowboxes, as well as in grow bags. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Trim the roots lightly to 10cm 4in if necessary, then spread them out in the hole.

Ensure that the base of the crown rests lightly on the surface before firming in gently. Water the plants in well. Many gardeners grow strawberries through polythene sheeting, ideally white with black on the underside, but any plastic mulching film will do.

This suppresses weeds, holds water in the soil and stops soil splashing onto the fruit. An irrigation system, such as a leaky pipe, installed under the sheeting also helps to maintain moisture. When planting in autumn or early spring, remove the first flush of flowers on perpetual strawberries, but with summer-fruiting strawberries only remove the flowers if the plants are weak.

When you plant cold-stored runners in late spring to early summer, leave the flowers on. These will produce strawberries in 60 days, reverting to their natural cropping period the following year. Strawberries can suffer from a range of problems, from bird and slug damage to specific problems such as strawberry virus and strawberry black eye.

Fruits may occasionally be affected by phyllody. Albion Day neutral Fair to poor Medium, firm berries have excellent flavor. Produces consistently from June until frost. Great for containers or in the garden. Grows well in part shade. Does not produce runners, so plants remain small. Planting and caring for young plants. Buying plants. Choosing a site, plant spacing and depth Site selection By choosing the right site to grow strawberries, you can lower disease and insect pest pressure.

Choose a site located away from trees and buildings that cast shade for more than a few hours each day. Trees will compete for water and nutrients as well as cast shade, so the strawberry bed should lay beyond the root zone of large trees. The root zone is roughly the same size as the canopy of a tree.

Strawberries should be planted in well-drained soil that does not accumulate standing water following a heavy rainstorm. Planting on higher ground minimizes frost damage, while increasing air circulation around the strawberry plants. Good air circulation allows the berries to dry out faster, reducing the incidence of some diseases. Plant spacing If planting a large number of strawberries plant in rows. There are many methods of row planting that work well for strawberries, but by far the most common method is the matted row system: Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart Space rows 3 to 4 feet apart June-bearing plants especially will send out many runners throughout the season and fill in the space between plants, so it's important to go with the recommended spacing, otherwise your plants will quickly become overcrowded.

Strawberries in the landscape. Watering After planting, firm the soil around the plant and water thoroughly. Strawberries perform best when they are given the equivalent of 1 inch of rainwater per week. Use a rain gauge to monitor rainfall and water with a soaker hose or drip system if needed.

One good soaking each week should be enough in most soil types. Always water early in the day so that leaves have a chance to dry before nightfall. This will help prevent leaf diseases. How to keep strawberries healthy and productive. Pinching flowers and training runners Spring of planting year After planting, pinch off any flower buds that appear for the first few weeks.

Fertilizing and weeding Fertilizing If June-bearing plants do not produce many runners by mid-July this usually means the plants need more nitrogen. You can apply compost or an organic fertilizer, such as blood meal, around the plants to increase nitrogen for plant growth. Before plants begin to grow in the spring of the second year, you may need to add more compost or organic nitrogen to encourage plant growth and fruit development. Weeding Because strawberries are poor competitors, keep all weeds out of the strawberry bed.

Hand-weeding is recommended for home gardeners. Careful cultivation with a hoe is effective for managing weeds in strawberry plantings, but be careful not to dig too deeply, as you could damage the plant's shallow root system. Harvesting and protecting plants in winter Harvest and storage. Renovation Renovation helps control diseases and insect pests by disrupting their life cycles.

Regardless of the size and shape of your strawberry patch it is best to mow or cut the foliage back before August 1. A new canopy will develop by mid-August. First, mow plants and remove clippings. Thin rows If plants are grown in rows, renovation is a good time to thin widening rows back to their original width.

Managing pests and disorders Gardeners need to be able to identify pests and the damage that they cause in order to choose the best way to manage them. Pest management schedule for strawberries What to do When to do it Protect strawberry flower buds from spring frosts.

Do not remove straw mulch used for winter protection until there is no longer a threat of frost, around when lilac buds begin to open. Early spring Leave mulch in the alleyways. To reduce spread of diseases from soil to fruit and leaves, add straw mulch around plants and in alleyways if remaining winter straw mulch is less than 2 inches deep.

Early spring If gray mold was a problem the previous year, completely remove all straw mulch from the bed and replace with new straw. Early spring Use mulch to recover flowers if a frost is predicted. Early spring Do not apply nitrogen in spring. It can produce too much young leaf tissue susceptible to leaf-disease fungi.

Early spring Look for clipped buds that could mean strawberry bud weevil activity. Before strawberry flowers bloom Look for Tarnished plant bug adults when flower buds are green or white. Before strawberry flowers bloom Set out traps for spotted wing Drosophila. Strawberry flowers are in full bloom Inspect for slugs. Apply baits if damage is detected. Strawberries are ripe Harvest fruit as it ripens to help protect against sap beetles and spotted wing Drosophila; remove and dispose of overripe fruit.

Strawberries are ripe Take care not to wound or bruise berries during harvest. Strawberries are ripe Remove berries infected with fruit rot to prevent spread of disease to ripening fruit.

Do not place healthy fruit and diseased fruit into the same container. Strawberries are ripe Renovate in the two weeks following harvest. After harvest Rake up and remove all leaf debris from the bed after renovation. After harvest Apply nitrogen fertilizers. After harvest Apply straw that is free of weed seeds two to three inches deep over the plants after they have been subjected to several sharp freezes in the low 30s or high 20s. Watering When watering plants, avoid getting the leaf surfaces wet by using a drip system or a soaker hose.

If a sprinkler system is used, water plants in the mornings on a sunny day to allow leaf surfaces to dry quickly, to reduce fungal diseases. Site rotation Land that has been planted in strawberries for 4 years or more can build up a population of root-rotting diseases.

If possible, move strawberry plants to different areas of the garden every 3 to 4 years. Winter injury Straw mulch reduces winter injury and plants that have less winter injury have reduced disease. Straw mulch is important in the spring and summer to reduce fruit and flower diseases by covering the soil and reducing spore movement carried by raindrop splash. Insects and wildlife There are many different insect pests of strawberries. Most insect damage can be reduced by following the best practices mentioned above and: Remove leaf litter to reduce the number of insect overwintering sites.

Remove weeds and keep lawns mowed as they can provide habitat for adults to feed and overwinter. Renovate the patch to remove potential habitat and reduce insect numbers.

Frequently harvest crops to ensure ripe fruits are not in gardens for too long. Remove and destroy any old fruit that remains on stems or that has fallen to the ground. The tarnished plant bug feeds on developing flowers, causing deformed berries.

The strawberry clipper clips off flower buds in spring, thus reducing harvest. Slugs feed on ripe fruit, leaving small, deep holes in the fruit and irregular holes in foliage. Feeding by thrips causes berries to appear bronzed and seedy. Spotted wing drosophila is a particular problem of ever-bearing strawberries and other soft fruits in Minnesota. Wildlife Rodents and birds may cause more trouble in home strawberry plantings than insects.

Frost damage on strawberries. Diseases of strawberries Strawberries are susceptible to fruit rots and leaf diseases. To keep fungi to a minimum: Plant in full sun.

Keep plants from being crowded. Water early in the day to reduce the amount of water on the flowers and fruit. Use straw mulch under the plants. Gray mold, leaf blight, leaf scorch and leaf spot Identify and manage fungal diseases Gray mold, leaf blight, leaf scorch and leaf spot are caused by different fungi, but are managed mostly in the same way. Remove weeds to improve air circulation around plants. Plant in rows or narrow beds, no wider than inches, to promote good air movement in and around plants.

Patches grow with time as new runners are produced. Use renovation to maintain narrow beds. Renovate strawberry beds every year after harvest.

Following renovation, rake and remove old leaves. Irrigate with drip irrigation or a soaker hose. If overhead sprinkling is your only option, water early in the morning on a sunny day so leaves dry quickly after irrigation. Apply nitrogen fertilizers after renovation.

Avoid early spring applications of nitrogen which encourage overly lush growth that reduces airflow and promotes a moist microclimate optimal for the growth of fungal diseases. Fungicides are either not necessary or not available to home growers to control these diseases. Cultural control practices usually reduce disease to a manageable level.

Gray mold Gray mold Botrytis cinerea is the most common fruit rot disease of strawberries in Minnesota. Leaf scorch In addition to leaves, leaf scorch Diplocarpon earlianum can infect petioles, runners, fruit stalks and berry caps. If unchecked, plants can be significantly weakened reducing the growth of all plant parts. Severely infected plants are weakened and can die from other stresses such as drought or extreme temperatures.

Disease develops when plants are: Stressed by drought, water-logged soils, winter injury, poor nutrition, and root feeding by lesion nematodes Pratylenchus penetrans or insects; and One or more of the black root rot fungi, Pythium spp. Root tips and young feeder roots may be completely rotten and fall off.

Infection in older roots is limited to the outer tissues of the root, leaving a white core that is unaffected. Leather rot Leather rot occurs sporadically in Minnesota. Oospores are tough resting spores that form in mummified berries and can survive many years in soil.

These germinate when soils are saturated to produce sporangia and zoospores. Zoospores are swimming spores that move through a film of water on the plant or soil to reach susceptible fruit and flowers.

Zoospores only need two hours of moisture on the plant surface to start an infection. Once infected, sporangia are produced on fruit and are splashed by rain or irrigation to infect other fruit. The leather rot fungus thrives in areas where water stands for awhile after a rain event.